Dateline November 25, 2024: Portugal and Transatlantic Cruising

Off on Another Adventure: Lisbon, Portugal

Our latest adventure has taken us to another corner of the world. We drove just 45 minutes from our home to Fayetteville Regional Airport in North Carolina, where parking is a breeze—you can leave your car just 30 steps from check-in. Our destination for the day was Lisbon, Portugal, where we would spend three days before embarking on a 16-day cruise from Lisbon to Puerto Rico, with several exciting stops along the way. A week before our departure, Kieran, John’s daughter, asked if she could go; we said sure, just book the cruise ship and planes, and you are in. Needless to say with that challenge before her she made all the bookings and was ready to go..

Exploring Lisbon: A City Steeped in History

We’ve talked about visiting Portugal many times. Though it’s a relatively small country, its rich history, incredible wines, and stunning landscapes could take weeks to explore. Given our limited time, we focused on Lisbon, Portugal’s vibrant capital, where our cruise would begin.

We rented a cozy two-bedroom apartment perched above Lisbon’s old port in a quiet neighborhood. The neighborhood (Alfama) is the oldest neighborhood of Lisbon, spreading on the slope between the Sao Jorge Castle and the Tagus River. São Vicente is home to numerous historic districts, including Alfama. The 1775 Lisbon Earthquake did not destroy the Alfama, a narrow street and a small square labyrinth. Lately, the neighborhood has been restored with the renovation of old houses. Due to renovations to the local tram system, walking has become our primary mode of transportation, which has turned out to be the best way to experience the city.

A Walk Down to the Waterfront

Our first adventure began by walking down the steep hills and winding streets to the Lisbon waterfront. The narrow alleys and countless stairs made for quite the trek, but the views back toward the top of Lisbon’s hills were breathtaking.

As we strolled along the waterfront, we arrived at the iconic Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square), one of Lisbon’s most famous public spaces. This grand 35,000-square-meter plaza features a striking equestrian statue of King José I at its center, framed by elegant arcades filled with shops and restaurants.

After admiring the architecture, we paused at one of the many Portuguese wine-tasting rooms nearby.

It was the perfect spot to relax, sample local wines, and gather our energy for the next stop: Time Out Market.

---

Discovering Time Out Market

Time Out Market is located in Cais do Sodré, a historic riverside district once profoundly connected to Lisbon’s maritime trade. The neighborhood takes its name from the Sodré family, 15th-century merchants who played a significant role in the area’s commercial success. Over time, the entire district, stretching from the waterfront to two blocks inland, became known as “Cais do Sodré” or “Sodré’s Wharf.”

Inside Time Out Market Lisbon

Time Out Market Lisbon, housed in the historic Mercado da Ribeira, is much more than a food hall—it’s considered a showcase of Lisbon’s culinary excellence. Established in 2014 by the Time Out Portugal team, the market curates only the best the city has to offer. If it’s good, it gets featured in the magazine; if it’s exceptional, it earns a spot in the market.

Walking inside, we were immediately struck by the sheer size and energy of the place: 26 restaurants, 8 bars, and countless boutique shops line the spacious hall, with communal tables filling the center. The buzz of conversation and enticing smells from every direction made it hard to know where to start.

Our first task was finding a seat for the three of us—not an easy feat! After some searching, we finally snagged a spot. John stayed behind to guard the table while Kieran and Janice explored the food stalls, choosing an exciting mix of Portuguese dishes and—of course—a bottle of wine carefully selected by Janice.

The food was fresh and unique, and the wine was excellent. We even picked up an extra bottle to enjoy later at our apartment.

Interestingly, just behind the market lies Lisbon’s former Red Light District, Rua Nova do Carvalho.

This street, once notorious as a gathering spot for sailors, criminals, and prostitutes, developed quite an unsavory reputation. However, in 2013, as part of Lisbon’s urban renewal project, the street was painted pink—a bold transformation that earned it the nickname “Pink Street.” Today, the area is home to trendy bars, restaurants, and nightlife that continues until dawn. We were told later that it was really not a place to go late at night—still a bit sketchy!

After a long day of travel, walking back straight uphill and going through the long staircases was not an option, so Kieran called an Uber. We tried to decide what to do about dinner, but since we had been traveling for the past 24 hours, we headed back to rest and prepared for the upcoming adventures. Kieran and Janice went shopping for something to make in the apartment and picked up eggs, butter, cheese, and some hard bread. John made cheese omelets—perfect.

Tomorrow, our destination will be Sintra, a famous old city nearby.

** John’s Book, Jack’s Story, memoirs of his father in WW2 and the Battle of the Bulge, is now available on Amazon.