Dateline: November 28, 2024 – Tour Lisbon By Tuk Tuk

After a more relaxed downhill stroll compared to the previous days, we arrived at the base of Lisbon’s historic Alfama District, just below our apartment. Determined to see the city in a fun, unique way, we decided to hop on one of Lisbon’s omnipresent three-wheeled motor scooter carts known as Tuk-Tuks—named for the distinctive sound of their two-stroke engines.

Meeting Salvador: The Perfect Guide

Enter Salvador, the charismatic owner and driver of Tuk-U-Up—you’ve got to love the name! Janice’s knack for picking unforgettable tour guides didn’t disappoint. Salvador looked like he’d been pulled straight from central casting, delivering line after line with perfect comedic timing. His charm, wit, and deep knowledge of Lisbon made him the ideal guide for our afternoon adventure.

We negotiated a tour of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods, focusing on the Alfama District, where Salvador proudly claimed deep family roots. With enthusiasm and flair, he guided us through the labyrinth of narrow alleyways, terracotta rooftops, and streets rich with history.

Alfama’s Storied Past

Salvador began with a fascinating history of Alfama, one of the few areas of Lisbon spared by the 1755 earthquake that devastated much of the city and coastal regions of Portugal and southwestern Spain.

“This is Lisbon,” he declared, “one of the oldest cities in Western Europe.” He explained how Ulissipo, as it was originally known, was settled by the Celts and later expanded by the Phoenicians. Over centuries, the city passed through the hands of the Greeks, Carthaginians, and eventually the Romans, who renamed it Olissipo and integrated it into the Roman province of Lusitania. When the Roman Empire fell, Germanic tribes took control, and the Kingdom of the Suebi ruled until 585.

Salvador’s storytelling gained momentum as he described Alfama’s defining chapter: the Moorish occupation in the 8th century. The Moors brought architectural and cultural influences that remain visible today, from Moorish courtyards to intricate tilework. He shared that the district’s name comes from the Arabic word “al-hamma,” meaning hot springs or baths, a nod to the ancient thermal baths that once dotted the area.

The Crusaders and the Fall of the Moors

Salvador animatedly recounted the legendary events of 1147, when King Afonso I reclaimed Lisbon from the Moors with the help of Crusaders during the Second Crusade.

One of the most gripping tales was of a Portuguese martyr who allowed a wall door to close on himself, creating a breach that enabled Portuguese soldiers to storm the city from below. At the same time, the Crusaders launched an assault from the surrounding hills. Trapped and outmaneuvered, the Moors were forced to surrender and retreated permanently to Morocco, never returning to Lisbon.

A Walk Through Living History

As we wandered through the narrow lanes, Salvador pointed out ancient gates leading to old Moorish neighborhoods and eagerly introduced us to local vendors. One unforgettable stop was to meet the “Cherry Liquor Queen.”

Salvador regaled us with how he first met her—invited into her home, where she proudly brewed her own ginjinha (a traditional Portuguese cherry liqueur). She claimed hers was the only truly handmade version in the area. With a warm smile, she offered us small chocolate cups filled with her homemade ginjinha. After a sweet, potent drink sip, we ate the delicious chocolate cup—a perfect combination of tradition and treat.

Salvador’s Story: Lisbon’s Historic Jewish Neighborhood

“As we continued to pass through these narrow streets,” Salvador began, gesturing toward the alleys to the left. “You’re walking through one of Lisbon’s oldest and most culturally significant areas—the old Jewish Quarter, or Judiaria.”

He explained that the Jewish community has deep historical roots in Lisbon, dating back to Roman times, but its prominence grew during the Middle Ages. By the 15th century, Lisbon’s Jewish population was one of Europe’s largest and most influential. The community thrived, contributing to the city’s development through trade, medicine, science, and finance.

“Many of the great explorers of Portugal’s Age of Discovery were financed by Jewish merchants,” Salvador added with pride. “Their knowledge of navigation and mapmaking helped launch some of history’s most important voyages.”

However, Salvador’s tone grew somber as he recounted the darker chapters of Lisbon’s history. In 1496, King Manuel I issued a royal decree expelling all Jews from Portugal or forcing them to convert to Christianity. “Some fled, others converted and lived as ‘New Christians,’ often in secret,” he said. “Many faced persecution during the Inquisition, which left a lasting scar on Lisbon’s history.”

True Street Art

We continued to drive around the city and he spoke of the art work in many areas done by local artists. These 2 pieces are amazing! They were both created entirely from garbage. real garbage..it is amazing!

A View from the Top: Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

Salvador drove us up the winding, cobblestone streets of Lisbon, the Route of Tram 28, not running that day, to one of its most breathtaking viewpoints: Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (Our Lady of the Hill Viewpoint). As we stepped out of the Tuk-Tuk, the sweeping panorama before us felt like a postcard come to life.

From this highest viewpoint in Lisbon, the city stretched out in a dazzling mosaic of red-tiled rooftops, church spires, and winding streets weaving through ancient neighborhoods.

Below us was the top of the Alfama District, and Salvador pointed out where the Crusaders and Portuguese armies had surrounded the Moors, forcing them to surrender.

In the distance, the iconic São Jorge Castle stood proudly atop its hill, watching over the city as it has for centuries. Beyond the castle, the shimmering waters of the Tagus River reflected the afternoon sun, while the 25 de Abril Bridge and Christ the King Statue rose majestically on the horizon.

Salvador shared that Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is named after the nearby Chapel of Our Lady of the Hill, a small but historic 18th-century chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Safe Delivery (Nossa Senhora do Monte). Expectant mothers in Lisbon have long made pilgrimages here to pray for safe childbirth—a tradition still honored today.

The atmosphere at the viewpoint was serene, with locals relaxing on stone benches shaded by olive and pine trees. A tile mural map helped us identify key landmarks, but honestly, the view itself was enough to leave us awestruck.

Love, Locks, and Legends at Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

As we admired the stunning views, Salvador pointed out something curious along the wrought-iron fence—a collection of padlocks fastened by couples as symbols of their eternal love. He explained that newlyweds and couples in love often come here after their wedding ceremonies, lock their padlocks onto the fence, and throw the keys away—sometimes into the distant Tagus River—as a gesture of everlasting commitment.

But Salvador, ever the entertainer, couldn’t resist sharing the local legend that adds a humorous twist to this romantic ritual. According to him, since the divorce rate in Portugal is 94% that meant 94% of the locks were already broken.

We laughed as Salvador shrugged and joked, “Maybe it’s the strong Lisbon winds blowing in from the Atlantic—or maybe it’s just the pressure of locking in your love!”

Of course, 94% comes from a single-year study when a certain number of marriages that year, there were a specific number of divorces. Not considering all marriages, they divided that particular year and came up with 94%, he even showed it to us on his iPhone. Of course, upon further investigation, we discovered the divorce rate is only 1.6 percent. Salvadore really thought it was 94…part of his charm. Whether couples believe in the superstition or just enjoy the symbolism, the padlocks add a unique touch to the viewpoint’s already enchanting atmosphere.

As we soaked in the beauty of Lisbon from above, Salvador simply smiled and said, “You haven’t truly seen Lisbon until you’ve seen it from here.” When we wen to get in the tuktuk another driver, a beautiful lady driver stopped and gave him a hug, tuned out it was a X girlfriend..

We headed back down; Salvador told us to hang on. There was no traffic, and he hit Warp Speed as we raced down the hill to the main road!

Salvador guided us across Lisbon to the Bairro Alto neighborhood. From this new vantage point, we could see the distant outline of Miradouro da Senhora do Monte perched atop its hill, its iconic view now flipped in reverse—a stunning perspective of where we’d just been. It was getting dark,  and the city was lit up. Beautiful!

We were in the neighborhood where we had dinner the night before. Salvador told us he wanted to recommend a small local restaurant that was inexpensive but very high in quality for our dinner. We entered a narrow, small place with a counter on the right and eight tables on the left. Some locals mostly watched soccer on television.

Salvador introduced us to the owner, who spoke broken English. We could see his wife cooking in the negligible kitchen. Salvador explained the short menu, which changed daily depending on what was available at The Time Out Market. We picked three items to share.

Farewell to Salvador

It was time to say farewell to Salvador. Kieran suggested we get a “selfie” with him, which the restaurant owner eagerly joined. It was the perfect ending to a day filled with stories, history, and unforgettable experiences.

We end our time in Lisbon and head to the cruise ship in the morning to start our cruise home to the U.S. We will be posting about the cruise later!

Do not forget to order your copy of Jack’s Story as a Christmas present!