Austria

Dateline May 30, 2016, Vienna, Switzerland, Milan, Hello Italy

From Budapest the trains carried us west into a different world, where the prices doubled and the mountains began. Vienna gave us St. Stephen's and Schonbrunn, and a hundred-dollar dinner that reminded us we had left the cheap East behind. Then came the Bernina Express, the highest railway crossing in Europe, over the Alps and down into Italy, a calzone in Tirano, soccer mayhem in Milan, and fifteen unforgettable minutes in front of Leonardo's Last Supper.