After a great night’s sleep, we were ready for our tour to Sintra, a charming village about a 40-minute drive from our apartment in Lisbon. John, Janice, and Kieran met the tour operator and, along with four others, set off in a spacious SUV toward the Pena Palace.
Stories from our Guide
Our guide shared gripping tales of Portugal’s past, especially the Earthquake and Tsunami of 1755 that devastated Lisbon.
“It was a trifecta of disasters,” he explained. “First, the earthquake struck, forcing terrified survivors to flee toward the riverbanks as the sea mysteriously receded. Believing they were safe, they soon faced a tsunami that roared upriver, destroying everything in its path. Those who escaped the waves ran for the hills, only to be met by raging fires ignited by candles left burning for All Saints’ Day.”
The destruction was staggering—between 30,000 and 50,000 people perished, and 85% of Lisbon was destroyed. Even the monastery in Sintra suffered significant damage.
History of Sintra and Pena Palace
The village of Sintra has been inhabited for centuries, dating back to the Roman period. In the 8th century, it fell under Muslim rule, remaining so until 1147, when King Afonso I of Portugal defeated the Badajoz Taifa and claimed it for Christianity. By 1154, Sintra was recognized as an official municipality.
However, it was after the 1755 earthquake that Sintra truly gained prominence, as Portuguese aristocrats began retreating there. In the 19th century, King Ferdinand II transformed a ruined Hieronymite monastery into the now-iconic Pena Palace, making it the royal family’s summer retreat.
Under the direction of Baron Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege, a mineralogist and mining engineer, the palace expanded into a fantastical structure blending Manueline and Moorish architectural styles. Romantic elements such as round paths, watchtowers, access tunnels, and even a drawbridge give the palace its “Thousand and One Nights” fairytale appeal.
Our guide also shared the bittersweet story of Queen Maria II, who tragically passed away before seeing the palace completed. King Ferdinand II later remarried and built Chalet of the Countess d’Edla, where he lived with his second wife, though the couple never occupied the grand Pena Palace.
The tour guide told us about the sad story of Mary II of Portugal, who married Ferdinand II of Portugal with his fortune and built the Pena Palace using the existing monastery for his beloved wife. Right after it was complete, Mary passed, and the story goes that even though he remarried, they never lived in the Palace, but he built another property, Chalet of the Countess d’Edla, which they occupied.
Morrish Castle
As we climbed toward Pena Palace, we passed the imposing Moorish Castle, built in the 10th century during the Moorish occupation of the Iberian Peninsula. After the Christian Reconquest, the castle served as a military fortress and even had its own church. By the 1500s, its strategic importance faded, and people began living outside its protective walls. King Ferdinand II later restored the castle as part of Sintra’s cultural preservation efforts.
Pena Palace
We arrived at the Pena Palace entrance, where our guide secured tickets. Visitors could either hike up the steep hill or take a bus to the top. After the previous day’s exhausting climbs, John chose the bus while Janice and Kieran walked up to take photos along the way.
Inside, the palace was as grand as expected. Lavishly decorated rooms for living, entertaining, and resting reflected Portugal’s regal past. Though magnificent, we admit that after touring several palaces over the years, they blend together! There is always restoration being done inside and outside the old palaces and castles. Here, one of the experts is working on a fresco on the ceiling inside the palace.
Outside, we were rewarded with stunning panoramic views of Sintra’s surrounding valleys and coastline. Our guide explained the difference between a palace and a castle: palaces are designed for luxurious living and entertaining, while castles were built for defense.
Strolling Through Sintra
We hiked back down the hill to our SUV and headed into Sintra’s village center, passing Regaleira Villa, which we decided to skip after learning from our guide that its modern restoration in the 1990s had altered its historical charm.
We wandered through quaint shops, snapping photos of charming streets before gathering at a guide-recommended café for coffee and snacks. As we relaxed, we got to know our fellow travelers—a fascinating cultural exchange!
One Cuban traveler shared stories of smuggling supplies into Cuba for his family, often having to disguise items as personal belongings. His tales were eye-opening, especially about how tourist money rarely benefits locals. Another fellow traveler, visiting from a business trip, reflected on how living abroad made him appreciate the privileges of life in the U.S.
Caba de Roca
We next visited Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe. The rugged cliffs stood defiant against the vast Atlantic Ocean, and the historic Cabo da Roca Lighthouse, built in 1772, still operates today as Portugal’s second-oldest lighthouse.
Cascais for Lunch and Relaxation
We left the Cape and headed to a very wealthy ocean village named Cascais. This would be our last stop and a chance to have a nice meal before returning to Lisbon. Cascais is the premier holiday destination of the Portuguese Riviera. Cascais became the summer retreat for the Portuguese royalty, and today, it is a blend of the original fishing village and the elaborate villas from days ago. We were told of some of the many restaurant choices and then left to our own devices to decide where to have our meals with a time to meet a few blocks away.
John, Janice, and Kieran chose a fish restaurant, which the guide pointed out when we drove into town.
The waiter recommended we order a whole Seabass with the proper potatoes and vegetables. We also ordered perfect white wine, which he recommended. As an appetizer, we were presented with fresh bread, sauteed Octopus, and olives, and dessert was creme brulee.
It was the best fish dinner we’ve ever had—so delicious we spent nearly all our time savoring the meal and had to hurry back to meet our guide for the return trip.
Our day was not yet complete. Our guide attempted to take us up to our apartment but with various challenges we ended up being dropped off with a walk up the hill. We got back to the apartment and got ready to go our to dinner. Kieran has spoke with a friend that recommended a restaurant in Lisbon, down near the river named the Mini Bar. We got changed and called an uber to take us to the restaurant.
Dinner at the Mini Bar and Port at Grapes and Bites
We were dropped off and it was confusing. There was a sing for multiple restaurants so we walked through a maze of several different restaurants to get to the one we had reservations, the mini bar. It was a lovely setting, the Mural above the bar and the set up of the table and beautiful walls..
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The food came in small portions but was incredible, each bite was fantastic, a bit pricey but not to be missed. We asked our waiter where we should go for port and dessert and he recommended a place just down the street named Grapes and Bites. The Christmas lights of Lisbon are up in most of the streets and squares so it is very beautiful as we walked over for dessert.
We found the wine place and went in and ordered some lovely port and creme brulee. It was wonderful and a terrific end to our day.
Afetr calling a Uber to pick us up at the square we were dropped off and the top of the hill, the road is closed a way down but most Uber’s will not proceed so here we go, down to our apartment for the night. We decided earlier on a number of things to do and places to visit and all agreed we would go to the bottom of the hill by the museum where the Tuk Tuk were parked and try to negotiate a deal for one to take us to the places on our list.
It is the 80th Anniversary of the Battle of the Bulge..Jack’s Story is about John’s Father, a tanker at that battle, buy now!!
Dear Janice and John,
After meeting you years ago in Berlin, it fills me with joy to see you thriving and enjoying life. You look so happy and healthy – an inspiring example that love truly is the key to living a good life.
Wishing you a blessed and joyful Christmas season with your loved ones!
Oliver
Oliver:
So wonderful to hear from you and your kind words. We have been blessed with health, love, and the many interesting and kind people we have met in our travels. Our daughter Kieran is with us on this trip, and we were telling her about our few days in Berlin and how enjoyable our dinner was with you.
Merry Christmas to you and your family!