Travels WithJohn and Janice
The Roseman covered bridge in Madison County, Iowa
United States4 min read

Dateline August 3, 2019, Iowa, Looking Back at 2018

No sooner had we crossed into Iowa than we passed the town of LeClaire, where we had stopped at the Pickers store the year before, and the memories came flooding back. We were rolling past one place after another from last summer's trip, and since the RV had given us so much grief in 2018 that the blog fell by the wayside, we decided to make up for it and tell those stories now.

One thing holds true whenever you take a detour in Iowa: you may find yourself driving between cornfields for a good long while.

Lost among the corn
Lost among the corn

Antique Archaeology, the Pickers. What a blast this was, like stepping onto the television. No one from the show was there, but it was great fun all the same. We poked through both stores and came away with a few coffee mugs.

A rusted treasure at Antique Archaeology
A rusted treasure at Antique Archaeology
The Pickers van
The Pickers van
All the things they have collected
All the things they have collected

It was a pleasure just to see everything they have gathered up and put out for sale, and many a time the old line proved true, that one person's junk is another's treasure. Watching the show, mind you, is still more fun.

The Herbert Hoover Presidential Library. "Herbert Hoover, the only president from Iowa," read the sign out on the highway. We had a fine time at the library and learned a great deal about the man, and we wrote the whole of it up last year in our Herbert Hoover post. A great stop.

The Hoover Presidential Library
The Hoover Presidential Library

The Bridges of Madison County. The Clint Eastwood picture about the bridges of Madison County came from a fine book by Robert James Waller.

The Roseman covered bridge
The Roseman covered bridge
The Hogsback bridge
The Hogsback bridge
The Imes covered bridge
The Imes covered bridge

The story was made up, though they say it grew out of a rumored romance, and the real stars of the thing were the bridges themselves. The community has done a great deal over the years to look after them, and they are a pleasure to go and see. We enjoyed not just the bridges but the Madison County courthouse and the main street at Winterset besides.

John Wayne's birthplace. Like the bridges, another favorite son of Madison County is John Wayne.

The John Wayne statue
The John Wayne statue

We stopped to see his birthplace and museum, though it was a quick visit; most of it is a gift shop selling trinkets and trash, and they charged to tour the actual birthplace, which we did not see the value in. Still, growing up a fan of the Duke was a lot of fun, and those are the memories you carry with you. He was given the Congressional Gold Medal on May 26, 1979, and Robert Aldrich, then president of the Directors Guild, said something about him worth remembering. Aldrich made a point of noting that he was a registered Democrat who shared none of the Duke's politics, and then set all of that aside: for his courage and his dignity and his integrity, for his gifts as an actor and his strength as a leader and his plain warmth as a man over a long career, Wayne had earned a place all his own. He had paid his dues, Aldrich said, over and over again, and he was proud to call him a friend and glad to see the country honor him.

The Amana Colonies. Off we went to another unplanned stop, the Amana Colonies, seven villages spread across some twenty-six thousand acres.

The Amana golf course
The Amana golf course
The Amana smokehouse
The Amana smokehouse

The villages were built and settled by German Pietists who had been persecuted at home by the state and by the Lutheran Church. They came first to New York, near Buffalo, and then, wanting more room and more quiet, moved on to Iowa in 1856. They lived a communal life right up until 1932, when the hard times of the Depression finally broke the old arrangement. The best-known business to come out of the Amana Society is Amana Refrigeration, though in their day they also turned out woolens for the Army in the Second World War. We stayed at the Amana RV Park and played the Amana Golf Club, an excellent time all around, and we came away knowing a good deal more about this part of the country. From there it was over the border into Missouri, for a town Janice had circled on the map.

You might also enjoy

More adventures from similar destinations and themes.

The view from Herbert Hoover's birthplace to his gravesiteUnited States
9 min read2018

Dateline July 12, 2018, Herbert Hoover

We have always loved the presidential libraries, and Herbert Hoover's, at his birthplace in West Branch, Iowa, asks a fair question: how did a brilliant humanitarian who fed millions come to be remembered as a failure? We set out to tell his whole story, the Quaker orphan who made a mining fortune, organized the rescue of starving Belgium and Russia, and then had the Great Depression land on his desk within months of taking office. It is a fuller and more generous picture than the schoolbooks give.

Read story
John's grandparents' home in the Rockwood neighborhood of SpokaneUnited States
3 min read2019

Dateline August 15, 2019, John's Spokane Roots

We spent a Spokane morning tracking down John's family. We found his grandparents' old Rockwood house, were invited in, and heard about the basement safe no one had dared open; we visited St. John's Cathedral, where his parents married and his brother Peter was baptized; and we picked out the Desert family home and the old Desert Hotel downtown. At seventy-two, John's memory held.

Read story
The original entrance to the Lewis and Clark CavernsUnited States
5 min read2019

Dateline August 10, 2019, The Lewis and Clark Caverns

Janice found us the Lewis and Clark Caverns near Whitehall, Montana, and what a history they hold: discovered by hunters in 1892, made a national monument by Theodore Roosevelt in 1908, fought over for decades by a tour-running quarryman named Dan Morrison, and finally, after the CCC carved its way through, Montana's first state park. The tour itself, bats and broken columns and all, was not to be missed.

Read story